For a long time, African fashion has been misconstrued as ‘tribal’ or ‘exotic’ and simplified to leopard skins and mud cloths. Many times, it is a point of reference. However, the source is never regarded as much as the derivative.
Africa is a large continent. As a result, the variation of the African fashion story that exists is influenced by a myriad of societies, and the status of individuals or groups within that community.
Majority of Africans did not dress for warmth, due to warm climates of the continent. Loin cloths or aprons were sufficient for men, while women wore wraps around their waist or breasts.
The first forms of clothing were bark cloth, furs, skins and hides, and the rest of the body adorned with beautification marks and colour pigments. Males simply wrapped the bark cloth that passed between the legs over a belt. Similarly, women draped the cloth over the belt to hide the front of their bodies.
Garments communicated status or marked a ritual or passage of time as people moved from one state to another. According to some traditions, young women wore just skirts, and when they got married, they would wear full body wraps and cloaks.
Soon, Africans began using raffia to sew separate pieces of bark cloth together. In time, grass skirts were the rage. Likewise, they used accessories to adorn the uncovered parts of the body. This consisted of more intricate jewellery and headgear fashioned from seashells, bones, ostrich eggshell pieces and feathers. Fur, skins, bone, animal tails and hair, raffia, wood, grass, bells and pressed metal all contributed to a rich and embellished costume, used especially for ceremonial purposes.
Colours and patterns, created in printed and dyed cloth; woven fabric strips; and beaded attire distinguished one ethnic group from another. Tribes prided themselves on the quality of their hand-made cloth. They used techniques handed down generation by generation for centuries.
Around the 15th century, shipping routes opened up between Europe, Africa, and the East. As a result, trade increased. Uncommon items arrived from far and wide. Africans coveted them and decorated local cloths with them. Beads, shells, and buttons were adopted on garments, either as an embellishment or used as the entire garment. For example in beaded aprons, capes, headbands and shoes.
The evolution of dress in Africa is very difficult to trace due to the lack of written word and actual historical evidence. Much is pieced together from various sources like traditional robes being handed down to present day tribal members, word of mouth (oral history), theater (masquerades) and from art and artifacts which show sculptural representations of dress.
Clothing was not generally needed for warmth or protection in most areas of the African continent due to the warm and hospitable climate and many tribes did not wear much at all. The men wore just a loin cloth or apron and the women wore wraps around their waist or breasts, often adorning the rest of their bodies with scarification and paint ochres.
Ancient African fashion was incredibly diverse and rich, with clothing styles varying greatly across the continent’s many cultures and climates. Early forms of dress often utilized natural materials like bark cloth, animal hides, and raffia, with adornments like beads, shells, and pigments adding personal and cultural significance. Clothing served not only as protection from the elements but also as a powerful means of communication, conveying social status, religious beliefs, and life stage transitions.
Different tribes throughout the continent pride themselves on their national dress which they use for ceremonies and special occasions. There are many varied styles of dress and the type of cloth plays an integral role in fashioning the garment. The fabric often reflects the society in general as well as the status of individuals or groups within that community.
In some instances traditional robes have been replaced or influenced by foreign cultures, like colonial impact or western popular dress code.
Early Materials and Techniques:
- Warm climates: The warm climate of most of Africa meant that clothing was often minimal, with men using loincloths or aprons and women using wraps.
- Natural materials: Early garments were crafted from bark cloth, animal hides, and raffia, often adorned with pigments and body painting.
- Dyes and patterns: Natural dyes derived from plants and minerals were used to create vibrant colors and intricate patterns on woven fabrics, reflecting tribal identities and traditions.
- Evolution and Influences: Trade and exchange:
- Contact with other cultures through trade brought new materials like beads, shells, and even fabrics from other regions, which were incorporated into African clothing.
- Status and symbolism: Clothing became a powerful marker of social status, with elaborate beadwork, headgear, and other accessories used to denote wealth, power, and important life events.
- Ritual and ceremony: Clothing played a vital role in ceremonies and rituals, with specific garments and adornments used to mark significant life passages like marriage, birth, and death.
Examples of Distinctive Styles:
In Ancient Egypt, linen garments, including intricate drapery, were common, reflecting the influence of the Nile River and a sophisticated textile industry.
In West Africa, The Yoruba people of Nigeria are known for “aso oke,” a handwoven fabric of cotton and silk, while the Mali Empire used “bogolanfini” (mud cloth) with symbolic patterns.
In Southern Africa, The Khoisan people, early inhabitants of the Cape Peninsula, used softened animal skins, plants, and ostrich eggshells for clothing.
In Sahelian Africa, The “dashiki,” Senegalese kaftan, and “grand boubou” are examples of distinctive styles in this region.
Modern Influence:
Many traditional African clothing styles and techniques continue to be used today, often adapted to modern trends and materials.
African textiles, patterns, and design elements have gained global recognition and influence, inspiring designers and fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
Stay tuned to www.globalafricantimes.com for the continuation in this series on African Fashion Trends
